Almost exactly two years ago today, I had a breathtaking afternoon near the Arc de Triomphe and saw Kim Jones finishing up his Spring / Summer 2020 menswear collection.
The dressing room was like a Willy Wonka chocolate factory for modern fashion lovers. On the wall are tables with champagne suitcases made in partnership with the new LVMH acquisition Rimowa at the time, favorite remixes of the Galiano era such as saddlebags and Dior gusset prints, and many made with the prosperity of Daniel Arsham. Accessories and jewelry were lined up. Yoon Ahn, Matthew M. Williams.
What they all had in common: Tips for curating (no, accelerating) the work of others. “I curate what modern Dior sees,” Jones said. Told me at that time.. “For example, a comparison of Raymond Pettibon’s romantic vision and Jean Cocteau. Daniel Arsham’s work on Dali. Cowes from Picasso’s point of view. You have to look at them from the point of view of where we are now. not.”
Two years later, the strategy is exactly the same, as the industry is looking at Jones’ blockbuster collection in collaboration with Travis Scott, who turned from a musician to a megabrand.
The curator’s boulevard, which continues from Christian Dior (born 1905 in Granville) and Travis Scott (born 1992 in Houston), is winding, but not so indirect. “When Christian Dior first went to the Americas, one of his first ports of call was Texas, which he loved,” Jones explained to us during this season’s fitting. “He loved it more than Los Angeles, so I saw it as an idea to start a collaboration with Travis Scott.”
A French couturier wandering the surreal plains of Texas, this spiritual image is a set design for today’s Spring 2022 Menswear Show, featuring giant roses and magic mushrooms growing from dusty pink sand. Did a lot. The western desert has always been a fantasy space, the projection plane of the sky for the wildest creative imagination, whether it belongs to Hunter S. Thompson or not. Las Vegas of fear and disgust Or Travis Scott’s Astroworld..
The advantage of the desert in the sky is that it is a space where anything can happen. And today, as the world of pop culture, art, and high fashion drifts together like structural plates, we’re learning not to be so surprised by the oozing volcanoes and lava that form. Was it really shocking to hear that Travis Scott is making burgers at McDonald’s? Similarly, was it really shocking to learn about this new collection at Dior? These developments are part of the natural course of things, and in Kim Jones’ work, collaboration is not only surprising, but always makes sense.
“I met Travis six years ago, and we’ve been in constant contact since then,” Jones told us, telling us the history of the show from 1947 to the present. “I started talking to Travis about a foundation that students want to set up to make sure they can’t afford to go to Parsons School of Design and realize their dreams, so talk to him.” Would you like to do something together? ” Because you work with fashion brands and haute couture houses and can support this project as well. This fundraising campaign led to the creation of a series of shirts hand-painted by artist George Condo, the show’s most fascinating artifact. It will be auctioned to fund Scott’s scholarship program.
The setting of today’s show would lead you to expect a complete parade of Yeho clothing, but no road in the old town was found in this collection. Western accents came in the form of flared tailoring, python prints, jeweled cacti, and the return of the aforementioned saddlebag bag to its natural habitat. There were instant fan favorites such as the hybrid snapback bucket hat, the oversized printed sweater, the couture-decorated track pants, and the new addition to the Dior sneaker Canon. Look 28 featured a model with all five different leather accessories in one hand, as if to say, “Hey, buy all this.”
But beyond all the highly coveted items themselves, Jones’ Spring 2022 Menswear Show could be cursed to live in our hearts as an issue about the essence of collaboration.Last month, a conversation about brand matchmaking — or as GQ’s Rachel Tashijan Call it “Corporate Raptorism” — Reached an enthusiastic pitch.Last week, editorial director Christopher Morenci Diagnosed The Tinder addiction luxury industry and how our sportswear editor Fabian Gorsler explained Collaboration inflation Destined to make sneaker foam. Oh, and at the same time, Dior announced another collaborative menswear collection with the Sacai label in Chitose Abe.
But it’s becoming increasingly clear that collaboration is just the way new ideas, clothing and artwork are generated today. In this sense, Travis Scott’s rap music home is far more timeless. When Drake sings with Lil Baby, no one in the music industry writes a fragment of thought.And when you read the liner notes for an album like AstroworldThe huge number of fellow musicians, vocalists and producers who create that one artwork is amazing.
For Dior Men’s Spring 2022, you’ll find similar things like George Condo’s paintings, Matthew M. Williams and Yun An’s accessories, and of course Scott’s own contributions. With all these hands involved, does it make sense to say that what looks like a runway is Dior x Travis Scott? Jones has collaborated so much by running Dior through an extroverted approach with this curator that it no longer makes sense to call it collaboration. He’s just making things.
Source link Travis Scott and Dior have removed “collaboration” from the dictionary
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